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Tweaking The Traditional

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By LAURA KINSLER

The Tampa Tribune

Published: July 12, 2008

TAMPA - Jerk Hut founder Andrew Ashmeade may be Tampa's king of conch, known for his special red sauce and the sweet sounds of steel drums.

But the Jamaica-born Ashmeade married into a Southern family and learned a thing or two about down-home cooking. He and his wife, Terri, have perfected the three "C's" of soul food: corn bread, collards and fried chicken. All three items appear on Ashmeade's new soul food menu, now available at the original Jerk Hut on Fowler Avenue.

Ashmeade will rename the restaurant Geraldine's Heart & Soul Cafe at the Jerk Hut after his late mother-in-law. "The recipes come from my wife and her mother," he said. "She was a great cook."

The new sign won't go up for a few months, but customers can sample the new menu now. It includes fried chicken, pork chops, rice and beans, macaroni and cheese, pepper steak and beef stew. Each entree comes with a side of corn bread and a choice of collards or steamed cabbage.

"We're excited," he said. "We're building the menu and adding more seafood dishes. We're going to add fried shrimp and catfish."

Ashmeade has been planning to convert the original restaurant since he moved the main Jerk Hut down the street, to a location across from University Mall. The staff has been selling takeout versions of the original Jerk Hut menu from the smaller store because the new location doesn't have a drive-through window.

Before launching the new menu, Ashmeade wanted to refine the recipes and create more healthful versions of traditional soul food staples. As TV chef Emeril Lagasse might say, "Pork fat rules," but customers won't find any of it at Jerk Hut.

"We've been testing the recipes at home," Ashmeade said. "We use less oil and saturated fats. Any way we can trim a few calories, we will."

That means the collards are cooked without a slab of salt back. "We use a smoked turkey wing," Ashmeade said. "It's less fat, and it gives the same taste."

The pepper steak is slow-cooked and extra tender. Ashmeade said he uses three types of peppers, fresh thyme, scallions and his own secret blend of spices. The menu will continue to grow, adding desserts such as peach cobbler and red velvet cake.

The Jerk Hut has a loyal following of longtime customers who must satisfy a craving for jerk chicken, curry goat or sweet plantains, but many are trying the new soul food recipes.

All meals are packaged to go, but diners may eat in the restaurant, too.

Reporter Laura Kinsler can be reached at lkinsler@tampa

IF YOU GO

WHAT: Geraldine's Heart & Soul Cafe at the Jerk Hut

WHERE: 1406 E. Fowler Ave.

WHEN: Open from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Monday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday

INFORMATION: Call (813) 632-9551.

trib.com or (813) 865-4844.

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